Those who’ve moved from their hometown of Pittsburgh know what I’m talking about. There are certain foods that you just can’t find in other parts of the country. Ever try to explain the concept of chipped ham at the deli department of a Southern supermarket? Exactly.
Even occasional visitors become addicted to Pittsburgh treats: Consider J.J. Watt (brother of Steelers’ T.J.) and his obsession for Sarris chocolate-covered pretzels.
Some favorite foods have traveled to other regions – like factory-made frozen pierogies. But they’re just not the same as those little stuffed pillows of dough handcrafted by church ladies. Surely, I’m not the only one who travels with a packed cooler to visit family in pierogi-free zones like Florida.
On the other hand, Primanti Bros.’s sandwiches don’t travel well. The combination of cole slaw, fries and meat between thick slices of Italian bread tends to get soggy on a road trip. But that’s OK for Yinzers returning home for a visit. With 41 locations across Pennsylvania, Primanti’s makes it easy to indulge in a freshly stacked sandwich. (I’ll take a Cap ‘n Cheese, please!)
Other foods harken to childhood memories of family gatherings with savory and sweet temptations that are hard to resist. Here are some more of our favorite Pittsburgh foods – and where to satisfy those cravings.
Fried zucchini
Fried zucchini is such a common sight on most local Italian restaurant menus that it’s hard to imagine a time when it didn’t exist. Pittsburgh owes a tip of the hat to Mary Tambellini Pelligrini, whose family version of Zucchini Fritti at her Downtown restaurant started our love affair with fried zucchini in the 1950s.
There are variations on the dish, with different cuts of zucchini, some breaded, some battered. But we prefer our zucchini sliced lengthwise in thin strips, breaded and deep-fried to crisp ribbons, served with a generous dusting of Parmesan cheese, lemon wedges and marinara sauce.
With so many from which to choose, we appreciate the slight crunch and deliciousness of those we’ve found at fine dining spots like Rico’s in Ross Township and La Tavola Italiano in Mount Washington and more casual locals like Monte Cello’s Restaurants and Il Pizzaiola cafes. It’s tough to pick a favorite, but we’re willing to continue our research across the city.
Chipped Ham Barbecue
Chipped ham deserves a category all its own. At Isaly’s in West View, you can buy Isaly’s signature Chipped Ham by the pound in this old-school diner. (Too old school to have a website.) Time stands still here, where diners are surrounded by photos from West View Park, Isaly memorabilia and vintage signage.
The menu is a throwback classic, too. Few can resist the Chipped Ham BBQ that’s served with chips or potato salad. Go for the potato salad, which rivals my Aunt Shirley’s. Try the Slammer, if you dare. It features an overwhelming half-pound pile of grilled chipped ham, onions and melted American cheese filling a homemade bun.
For convenient craving satisfaction at home, Isaly’s Barbecue Sauce is sold in jars at local grocery stores.
Or you can use my mom’s easy recipe that tastes remarkably similar: Combine 1 cup ketchup, 1 tablespoon brown sugar, ½ teaspoon dried mustard, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 2 tablespoons water, and a dash of salt and pepper in a saucepan. Stir in 1 pound of chipped ham, then heat through. Spoon onto burger buns. Makes enough for about 12 sandwiches.
Fried Bologna Sandwich
For those naysayers who turn their noses up at this childhood culinary concept, point out that even Bon Appetit magazine acknowledges the dish with a published recipe for Fried Bologna Sandwiches.
But really, how complicated can it be? Think of it as a BLT with the “B” standing for bologna instead of bacon. Toss a few slices in a pan, fry them up and stack them on sandwich bread with your choice of condiments. If you care enough to avoid the curly edges and a bubble in the middle, slice slits along the edges before frying.
For eating out, head to Fat Cat on the North Side where nostalgic foods from the ‘70s and ‘80s are revisited. A real blast from the past is found in My Crispy Bologna Sando. This must-order comes between thick slices of toasted sourdough. It’s loaded with slices of premium bologna, gooey smoked cheddar cheese, a smear of Dijonnaise, plus pickled peppers for added flavor.
I must admit, it’s a step above the fried bologna and ketchup sandwiches Grandma served.
Turkey Devonshire
If Turkey Devonshire is on the menu, I cannot resist it. This cheesy open-faced sandwich was created by Pittsburgh restaurateur Frank Blandi in 1934. He named the open-faced sandwich after a Shadyside street to give it a classy British moniker. The dish is similar to a Louisville Hot Brown but replaces gravy with a creamy cheese sauce.
Oakland’s Union Grill received national attention for its Turkey Devonshire on the Food Network’s “Taste of America” and the Travel Channel’s “Delicious Destinations with Andrew Zimmerman.” The kitchen is proud to remain true to the original recipe of toast points topped with diced tomatoes, oven-roasted turkey slices and bacon. The four-cheese sauce is poured over the whole thing for the ultimate comfort food.
You can choose from an array of Devonshire versions at Joe’s Rusty Nail Restaurant in Bellevue. Beyond the standard dish, Rusty Nail offers a chicken and broccoli combo, the Texas Hot Brown with chicken filets and ham, plus onion ring garnish. The Mermaid tops the layered cheesy dish with a crabcake and onion rings.
Want to make it at home? Giant Eagle offers a recipe that’s perfect for a chilly night dinner.
Pierogies
You’re likely to find pierogies in any city that had an influx of immigrants from eastern European countries. Pittsburgh is no different, but we seem to have way more pierogies being sold around town than other places. We grew up with pierogies handmade at neighborhood churches. We have businesses that specialize in this local fave: Think Pierogies Plus, Cop Out Pierogies and Pittsburgh Pierogi Truck.
Restaurants cater to our cravings, too. At the acclaimed Apteka, the menu offers pierogies as entrees stuffed with vegan delights. The Smazone plates sauerkraut and mushroom pierogies with herbed potato and onion pierogies alongside red beets and celeriac remoulade. Pierogies z Ziemninkami combines potato and cabbage pierogies with onion, carrot and juniper with czarna salsa.
At Church Brew Works, a serving of pierogies is the perfect match for a Pious Monk Dunkel or What the Helles?!? lager. Play it safe with the traditional potato and cheese or ramp it up with the Buffalo Chicken Pierogie Saute in which pierogies are tossed with beer-braised chicken and celery in a buffalo cream sauce.
My go-to pierogi source is St. George Ukrainian Church in Brighton Heights, where volunteer church ladies (and men) craft classic potato, sauerkraut and half-and-half varieties, plus specialty pierogies like loaded baked potato, jalapeno and farmer’s cheese.
Strawberry Pretzel Salad
A family party usually involves a lot of food contributions. Specific dishes are assigned to those who make them best. The Strawberry Pretzel Salad is one of those required for the dessert buffet table – not the salad table.
For those unfamiliar with the concept, a Strawberry Pretzel Salad begins with a buttery crushed pretzel crust, a layer of sweet cream cheese concoction, topped with a gelled strawberry mix. The recipe received its first claim to fame in General Mill’s “The Joys of Jell-O” in 1963.
It’s standard fare at Pittsburgh potlucks, but while you’re waiting for your cousins to come through with the next family get-together, you can find versions all over town. Burgatory includes a creamy, chunky Strawberry Pretzel Salad on its crafted milkshake menu. The dessert lineup at Ritual House Downtown includes Not Your Gram’s Strawberry Salad in a somewhat deconstructed fashion. It features fresh strawberries, pretzel crumbles, strawberry mousse and a cream sauce.
You can pick up individual Strawberry Pretzel Salads in a cup at The Pretzel Shop, South Side, which makes perfect sense. Shell’s Sweets and Treats, McKees Rocks, keeps the dish on its daily menu. Pure bliss!
Want to be the star of your next family party? Here is a recipe from the source: Jello-O.
